For the Love of...: ...Bistro Suzette (Calgary)

Overall - 9/10
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Food - 9/10
Service - 9/10
Ambiance - 9/10

Until recently, the rising profile of other cuisines from around the world captured the appetites of many, from Spanish tapas to the now ubiquitous presence of Asian flavours everywhere you look.  French food is making a steady comeback since chefs have reimagined traditional French cooking.  A while back we compiled a list of our favourite French Bistros in Calgary for Taste Trekkers and if only Bistro Suzette were open then, it certainly would have a place on that list.

Bistro Suzette opened just over a week in the former location of one of our previous favourites, Bistro 2210.  Suzette serves dishes from the Normandy and Brittany regions of northern France. There is an emphasis on rich and earthy flavours cooked up without pretense. Attention to little details from the French speaking wait staff to the Opinel pocket knives repurposed to steak knives all serve to transport you straight to France.  Darrin had the recommended semi dry apple cider in a latte cup (as its traditionally done according to our friendly server) and I had the Kir Breton which was sparkling wine with cider.

Their specialties are the galettes and crepes. The Breton style galettes are crispy and thin buckwheat pancakes that are stuffed with various savoury ingredients. We chose the Forestière at the recommendations of our waiter which was filled with cremini mushrooms, oyster mushrooms, potatoes and topped with a light salad. Earthy and satisfying are the two words that come to mind when eating this dish.  What we appreciated the most was the delicate balance of flavours; each ingredient was enhanced by the other and perfectly seasoned.

Our mains included the steak frites and the fish of the day, trout en papillote. The pre-sliced steak was tender and perfectly rested while the frites were thin and crispy just the way we like them.

To our surprise the steamed trout stole the show with how fresh and moist it was. Trout doesn't have the same fat content as salmon and has tendency to dry out which is why we typically steer clear; however Suzette utilized the method of steaming the fish in its own parchment pouch rendering it perfectly cooked. The lemon beurre blanc added a wonderful dimension of flavour and richness to this delicate dish.

For dessert, we chose the Suzette and Normand crepe.  The Suzette was topped with orange juice, zest and Grand Marnier which was flambéed table side.  Eating this crepe is almost like eating an orange itself; sweet and refreshing.  The slight bitterness of the zest and the Grand Marnier kept it from being overly sweet.

The Normande is topped with caramelized apples, flambéed Calvados and vanilla ice cream.  This was like eating a delicious apple pie in crepe form.

Bistro Suzette's focus on Northern French cooking is unique in Calgary, and we hope to return in the near future.